The new Pelagos FXD GMT is Master Chronometer-certified by METAS to ensure maximum precision and reliability in the adverse real-world conditions endured by personnel of the Aéronautique Navale.
“The Pelagos FXD GMT can keep track of time in up to three time zones at once, one being Zulu time, the military name for Universal Time Coordinated (UTC) and the standard reference time for all aviators—a valuable tool when undertaking crucial missions .”
Since the 1950s, TUDOR has been officially supplying the Marine Nationale (French Navy) with reliable diving watches used to carry out the daring duties of naval troops for decades. The first Pelagos FXD model – “FXD” referring to the extra robust FiXeD strap bars of the watch case – was introduced in 2021, continuing the legacy of TUDOR and the French Navy. After years of use in the field, the Pelagos FXD platform has a proven track record of service.
In 2024, the FXD family is expanding to meet the needs of the Aéronautique Navale (French Naval Aviation), the force responsible for naval aviation operations. The Pelagos FXD GMT can keep track of time in up to three time zones at once, one being Zulu time, the military name for Universal Time Coordinated (UTC) and the standard reference time for all aviators—a valuable tool when undertaking crucial missions. Zulu time corresponds to zero-meridian time or the time at zero degrees of longitude, commonly known as Greenwich Mean Time (GMT).
It's standardized use in global aviation prevents confusion in communications between nations and time zones. The word “Zulu” is the standardized phonetic alphabet code word used in aviation for “Z” or the first letter of the word “zero”.
Zulu time is tracked by the highly legible bright orange hand that completes a full lap around the dial every 24 hours. Once set, this hand typically is not reset, allowing sailors of the French Naval Aviation to check the global aviation reference time at a glance. The angular hour hand, commonly nicknamed “Snowflake,” indicates local time. It is set through the winding crown and “jumps” in increments of one hour for easy setting when changing time zones. The date changes when the hour hand passes midnight, in either direction—backwards or forwards. A third time zone can be checked using the 24-hour luminous bi-directional bezel and the orange Zulu time hand.
TUDOR AND THE FRENCH NAVY
“With the Pelagos FXD GMT, TUDOR and the French navy write a new chapter in their extensive shared history, deploying the FXD platform as a robust solution to naval aviation time-tracking needs.”
TUDOR chose to join forces publicly with the French Navy in 2021, thus continuing a relationship that dates back to 1956. Back then, the Groupe d'Étude et de Recherches Sous-Marines (GERS), a scientific body attached to the French Navy and based in Toulon, took delivery of some Oyster Prince Submariner watches in order to assess them in real-life situations. They were references 7922 and 7923, both waterproof to 100 meters (330 ft) and fitted with self-winding and manual movements, respectively. The waterproofness of these watches was judged to be “perfect” and their performance “entirely correct” by the GERS commanding officer at the time. Persuaded by the potential of the instruments offered by the Genevan brand, he quickly placed more orders, enabling TUDOR to achieve the status of “official supplier to the French Navy” in 1961.
TUDOR divers' watches continued to be developed and the French Navy would use many of the brand's timepieces over the following decades. Today, the most famous TUDOR divers' watch used by the French Navy is the reference 9401, with its iconic blue dial and bezel. Engraved on the case back with the initials “MN” followed by the year of issue, the watches were delivered in two configurations: first with “Snowflake” hands and hour markers and later, with triangular hour markers. This model was launched in the mid-'70s and was supplied to the French Navy until the 1980s.
It continued to be used into the 21st century, particularly at the French Navy's diving school, as well as by combat swimmers.
In 2021, reviving this historic collaboration, TUDOR released a new technical watch for underwater navigation developed in conjunction with the French Navy's combat swimmers. Based on a set of specifications that are as precise as they are demanding, the Pelagos FXD model introduced many functional features that were new to TUDOR, including its distinctive fixed strap bars machined into the main body of the 42mm titanium case for increased robustness and reliability . Shaped as an extension of the lugs, they are key to the model's characteristic silhouette. With the Pelagos FXD GMT, TUDOR and the French navy write a new chapter in their extensive shared history, deploying the FXD platform as a robust solution to naval aviation time-tracking needs.
FORM FOLLOWS FUNCTION
The cockpit of a Rafale Marine jet, the bay of an Atlantique 2 long-range patrol plane or the air-traffic tower aboard a helicopter carrier all have one thing in common, besides being part of the French Naval Aviation force. They all operate in Zulu time. To easily keep track of Zulu time, TUDOR has developed the Pelagos FXD GMT. Based on its tried and tested FXD platform, this watch is all about functionality, featuring a robust yet lightweight grade 2 titanium case with fixed strap bars that is waterproof to 200m and fully brushed for a matt effect. The 42 millimeter case, housing a high-performance mechanical movement, features a high contrast dial and color-coded hands, the 24-hour Zulu time arrow-head hand made distinctive thanks to the use of a bright orange lacquer. These attributes combine to allow for enhanced legibility in dark environments or at night when the potent luminous material of its hands, hour-markers and bezel allow for instant gathering of time-tracking information. Furthermore, the hour-markers as well as the hour, minute and seconds hands share a blue luminescence contrasting with the green luminous emission of the 24-hour hand and graduation on the 24-hour bezel. A detail that allows for an instinctive read of Zulu time, any time. If you add the time and date-setting practicality of the MT5652-U Manufacture Caliber to the above, with winding crown-operated, jumping-hour coupled date, you have a time-tracking tool fit for any sky-bound mission.
To highlight the Pelagos FXD GMT's official commission with the French Navy and its aviation arm, its grade 5 titanium case back bears the logo of the Aéronautique navale (French Naval Aviation) composed of a winged anchor topped with a star, as well as a historically inspired engraving of “MN24” for “Marine nationale 2024” indicating the year of production of each batch of the watch.
A BRACELET WOVEN IN THE FRENCH NAVY'S HERITAGE
Historically, the French Navy had TUDOR watches delivered without bracelets and then fitted them with their own straps, handmade or otherwise. Two strap types appear to have been particularly used over the years: black straps made from a single piece of braided nylon, and, less commonly, handmade straps made from parachute elastic, which could be recognized by their green color and yellow or red central thread . It is to these ultra-functional relics, inextricably linked to the French Navy, that the fabric strap of the Pelagos FXD GMT pays tribute. In the case of the Pelagos FXD GMT, the color of the strap matches the specific color of the flight suit worn by aviators of the French Naval Aviation.
The single-piece fabric strap is one of the hallmarks of TUDOR, which in 2010 became one of the first watchmaking brands to offer it with its watches. Woven in France on 19th century Jacquard looms by the Julien Faure company in the St-Etienne region, its manufacturing quality, robustness and comfort on the wrist are unique. For the Pelagos FXD model, a new, highly technical strap construction was developed by TUDOR and Julien Faure. Made from a 22mm green polyester woven ribbon, the strap features a grade 2 titanium pin buckle and keeper as well as a removable fabric keeper, finely embroidered with the French Naval Aviation's roundel, composed of the French flag's blue, white and red colors, circled in gold and topped with a black anchor.
By notable coincidence, Julien Faure, a family firm created in 1864, has for many years woven decorative ribbons in its workshops, bearing the names of French Navy ships and forming an integral part of the legendary bachi, the red pompom hat worn by French sailors .
THE MANUFACTURE CALIBER MT5652-U
“The Manufacture Caliber MT5652-U that drives the Pelagos FXD GMT model illustrates the technical development process signature of TUDOR, drawing on adaptable movement architecture capable of integrating new functions, in this case a GMT indication, rather than resorting to additional modules. A minor detail for some, but a must for watchmaking purists.”
The Manufacture Caliber MT5652-U that drives the Pelagos FXD GMT model illustrates the technical development process signature of TUDOR, drawing on adaptable movement architecture capable of integrating new functions, in this case a GMT indication, rather than resorting to additional modules. A minor detail for some, but a must for watchmaking purists.
This movement offers the general look and feel of TUDOR Manufacture Calibers with dedicated sun laser design and bears the “Master Chronometer” mention on its bridges, emphasizing its superior performance. Its monobloc rotor is made of tungsten. It is openworked and features the laser radial grooving and sand-blasted details distinctive to TUDOR Master Chronometer calibers. A combination of finishings can be found on the bridges as well.
The build of the Manufacture Caliber MT5652-U is designed to ensure robustness and precision. To do this, the variable inertia balance wheel is maintained by a sturdy traversing bridge with two-point anchoring. It is certified as a chronometer by the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC), with its performance going beyond the standards set by this independent institute. In fact, where COSC allows an average variation in the daily rate of an uncased movement of between -4 and +6 seconds and TUDOR applies a 6-second (-2/+4) variation standard on its fully assembled watches, METAS requires a fully assembled Master Chronometer-certified watch to run within a tolerance range of 5 seconds (0/+5). Not only is the Manufacture Caliber MT5652-U certified to be more accurate, it is also rated as anti-magnetic, making it impervious to magnetic fields below 15,000 gauss.
Another notable feature is that the power reserve of the Manufacture Caliber MT5652-U is “weekend-proof”, able to run for about 65 hours. This enables the wearer to take the watch off on a Friday evening and put it back on again on Monday morning without having to wind or reset it.
THE TUDOR MANUFACTURE
Every TUDOR watch, including the Pelagos FXD GMT, is assembled and fully tested to TUDOR's superior standards at the new TUDOR Manufacture located in Le Locle, Switzerland. This new state-of-the-art facility, bringing together the know-how of watchmakers with the best in production management and automated testing systems, was completed in 2021 after three years of construction.
All decked out in TUDOR red, the Manufacture spans over four levels totaling 5,500 square meters and is physically and visually connected to the neighboring Kenissi Manufacture, the TUDOR movement production facility founded in 2016. With Kenissi and a network of TUDOR-owned affiliates, the brand has been able to integrate the development and production of high-performance mechanical calibers. As a consequence, TUDOR now fully masters the manufacturing of strategic components and can guarantee their quality.
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